Zvičina (671 m above sea level) is one of the most beautiful sightseeing places in the Giant Mountains. However, the reality is a bit different - you can climb up from the lookout tower at Raisova hut, but the panorama of the mountains is covered by trees. However, to the south and west, you can enjoy a magnificent view of the Ještěd-Kozak Ridge, the Bohemian Paradise, Bezděz and the legendary Říp.
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Photo: Vratislav Konečný
Raisova chata - the heart of Zvičiny
The dominant feature of the peak is Raisova chata, named after the writer Karel Václav Rais, a lover of the Podkrkonoší region. The Czech Tourist Club opened it in 1911 and later added a lookout tower with a rotating dome.
The cottage was the scene of dramatic events - in 1909 vandals destroyed its furnishings, sparking a wave of patriotic solidarity. It was then that Zvičina became a symbol of Czech belonging.
Today the lodge is open again, offering honest cuisine, fast service and excellent beer. Parking is right next to the property, and there is also a ski area nearby.
Photo: Vratislav Konečný
From Hus to Nepomuk
The Baroque Church of St. John of Nepomuk has stood on the site of the original wooden chapel dedicated to Jan Hus since 1706. Symbolically, it reflects the time when the name of Hus tried to displace the name of the Baroque saint. The interior of the church can be viewed at least through the grille in the entrance.
The pilgrims' memorial book, which has been kept by visitors since 1825, is now kept in the National Museum.
Photo: Vratislav Konečný
The mountain where the history of the Czech nation was written
Since the 19th century, Zvičina has been the scene of important rallies and patriotic meetings. In times of political tension, thousands of people gathered here to protest against the Austro-Hungarian settlement of 1867.
Similar events were held at other symbolic places - Říp, Blaník and Karlštejn - and became an expression of the desire for national identity. As many as 15,000 participants visited the Zvičina hill, singing songs about Jan Hus despite police surveillance.
Photo: Vratislav Konečný
When the view is blocked by trees
At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, a dispute over Zvičina was fought between the Czech and German tourist associations. The Germans from Hostinné, who considered the Giant Mountains as "their Riesengebirge", allegedly planted trees on the northern slope to prevent the Czechs from seeing the mountains. The trees are still growing here today - the panorama of the Krkonoše is really only partially visible from the lookout tower.
The best views are from the edge of the slope or from the transfer station near the hut.
Photo: Vratislav Konečný
A place where poets and tourists have returned
Famous literary figures - Karel Hynek Mácha, Karel Jaromír Erben, Jaroslav Vrchlický and Ignát Herrmann - have also climbed Zvičina. All of them described the local landscape as a place where poetry and the rugged beauty of the Podkrkonoší region meet.
For generations, the peak has been a popular destination for hiking trips and pilgrimages, and it is still one of the most popular destinations in the region. After the war, Rais's cottage was taken over again Czech Tourist Club and resumed its operations.
Giant Mountains? Absolutely not, it's the Riesengebirge!
Tourist associations - the Czech one from Dvůr Králové and the German one from Hostinný - showed interest in the construction of a hut in Zvičina. The Czechs managed to acquire a plot of land on which stood an outbuilding, which later turned into an inn. At that time, the struggle for the construction of the lookout tower began to escalate. To avoid favouritism, the authorities of the time refused both applications.
Photo: Vratislav Konečný
Zvičina today
Today Zvičina is a quiet place with a rich history. It attracts hikers, cyclists and paragliders who take advantage of the ideal conditions for take-off. At the foot of the mountain stands a reconstructed Spa under Zvicina, from where a marked trail leads directly to the top.
Photo: Vratislav Konečný
Interesting fact at the end
Although the tower has long been reported as closed, since 2010 it is accessible again. The view of the Giant Mountains is obscured by trees, but the view of the Bohemian Paradise and Jested will make up for it with a smile.
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